Our High Quality Lightweight Backpacking/Bikepacking Tents
STATION13 Skylar - Ultralight 1 Person Tent
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Above: Our new STATION13 SHIELD tent
Left: Our new STATION13 Glencoe 1 Tent *** NOW IN STOCK - NEW! *** |
Above: STATION13 Tents Packed Size Comparison
From left to right: Skylar, Pyramid, Whisper, Backpacker, Topwind 1, Sage, Shark 2
From left to right: Skylar, Pyramid, Whisper, Backpacker, Topwind 1, Sage, Shark 2
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Lightweight Backpacking Tents
Lightweight Backpacking/Bikepacking Tents - Additional Information
There are of course all manner of camping tents to suit all manner of camping and all manner of individual requirements, from enormous family tents to tiny, solo backpacking tents. And even within any specific tent category you will find a truly vast range of prices. For example, two person tents can range from cheap throwaway £15 festival tents to similar size tents costing close to the £1000 mark!
Here, at STATION13, our interest is only in the small, one man and two man camping tents for lightweight camping, backpacking and bikepacking.
This page is here to provide you with a wealth of information on small backpacking/bikepacking tents in general and so arm you with enough knowledge to make an informed decision before committing to buy a tent. Please do also take a look at our '2 Person Tents - Additional Information' website pages.
Even in this category of camping tents there is a vast array of options, and what suits one person may not suit another. And then of course there is your budget to consider. Not everyone can afford to fork out for the most expensive, lightest, highest spec tent available. And indeed, you will find that even with the most expensive, lightest tents, from big name brands, there are always trade-offs. That is to say, there is no such thing as a universally perfect lightweight tent.
What I mean by this, is that to reduce overall weight, something has to give somewhere else. Fair enough, ditching relatively heavy and weaker fibreglass tent poles for lighter and stronger aluminium alloy poles makes perfect sense, but there comes a point whereby, even using the best, lightest, most costly, cutting edge materials, the only way to further reduce weight is by compromising on some other aspect of the tent. Thinner tent poles, one tent pole as opposed to two tent poles, much thinner materials, six tent pegs as opposed to eight, smaller sleeping area, no vestibule, etc - all things that can possibly decrease the robustness and reliability of the tent and also reduce overall functionality.
Like I said, there are always trade-offs. To keep weight down to a minimum, sacrifices elsewhere have to be made, which in essence means that when looking for your ideal tent, you will need to prioritise.
The weight of your tent
Weight is most often the number one priority, and for good reason. No backpacker wants to carry any more weight than necessary, however there does come a point whereby reducing the weight of the tent to an extreme can result in a far less practical tent, offering less comfort and greater hardship – two things you probably won’t enjoy after a long day hiking. Now you can get ultra-lightweight tents that only weigh a kilogram or less, provide enough space for you and your pack, and allow you a very good nights sleep. Of course the very latest, cutting edge, ultra-lightweight fabrics come at a price, and you could by a decent second hand car for the price of some tents in this category. And, be aware that these ultra-high priced tents are not themselves automatically the best tent for your needs, and indeed, if you do your research and check out feedback, they are not infallible or indeed totally without their issues. In fact you will often find that the very expensive ultralight tents will not be particularly durable and indeed will fare no better, if not worse, than much lower cost tents under certain conditions... particularly in exposed situations involving high winds. And, if you expect to be continually camping in very unpleasant and unforgiving weather, then it may well pay to opt for a slightly more robust tent that features heavier, but more resilient fabrics. Just keep in mind that many of the ultralight tents massively prioritise weight saving over durability, and whilst they may be great for UK summer months, or sunnier climes, some of these ultralight tents will potentially struggle in inclement weather, and indeed more extreme UK weather conditions.
If these high-end, high performance, ultralight tents are out of your price range, but you still only want to carry around a kilogram, then bivvy bags or small one man ‘coffin’ tents (bivvy tents) are an option. However, you will likely have to leave your rucksack and other gear outside, be comfortable sleeping in such a confined space, and certainly not suffer from claustrophobia... and it's worth bearing in mind that condensation can be much more of an issue with coffin tents and bivvy bags in particular. Some people get on great with these tiny one man bivvy tents, but I must admit I do prefer at little comfort at the end of a hard day - a tent roomy enough for me to get changed in, store my gear inside with me, and have at least a little head room. Sometimes, particularly if budget is a major issue, then the comfort, convenience and sheer practicality afforded by slogging an extra ½ kg or so around, is well justifiable. But that’s just my opinion. If that extra ½ kg is going to cripple you or make your life a total misery, then unless you have an unlimited budget, you obviously have less options.
Of course it is quite easy to find a tent that meets my requirements, and for a very decent price, if I'm willing to accept that I will have to carry around 2.5 – 2.7kgs. However, if I want to shave a kilogram or so off the weight, then finding a tent that meets my specific requirements at a half-decent price is a whole different matter. As the grams come off, the tent prices tend to start soaring.
The key thing when looking for a suitable tent, is to know exactly what you want in the first place. Once you have determined what you are looking for in a tent, and what your budget is, then you have a good basis to start your research. Given the vast array of tents available, until you know exactly what your personal requirements are, then finding the most suitable tent for your specific needs will, to say the least, be very difficult.
You get what you pay for
As with many things, the old adage ‘You get what you pay for’ is often banded about when it comes to lightweight tents, and while there is always a certain truth to this saying, you can also, very easily, ‘Overpay for what you get’! Many people tend to shy way from anything made in China, however, the reality is that many of the bigger brand names, though based in the UK, USA or wherever, all have their products manufactured in China. So, if the tent is of quality material, quality construction and performs, I would not be overly concerned by this.
In fact, when we were researching tents to source from China, looking for a reputable and reliable supplier, we found that you can find various versions of almost identical looking tents, some seemingly at substantial cost-savings. However, although outwardly they may appear identical, this is not the case, and indeed is far from true. When we looked a little deeper we saw that the differing versions are made to different standards and very different specifications, to suit different markets and indeed different pockets. Cost-saving and corner-cutting is evident on the cheaper versions: less waterproof flysheet; fibreglass poles, different inner tent materials and construction, and often more subtle hard-to-notice labour-saving construction differences that can impact performance in the field. Here, the old adage 'You get what you pay for' really does apply.
The biggest selling point for most one person and two person tents, and often the number one priority for any budding lightweight (or ultralight) solo backpacker, is weight. If you are travelling on a motorbike, or even cycling, lower weight and smaller pack size is important, but never as much so as when you are lugging your tent around all day, on your back, in a rucksack.
Cyclists can get away with a few more pounds, a small two man tent weighing 3 – 3.5kgs is not going to be crippling, but reducing this weight by 1 – 1.5kgs can make a hell of a difference when it’s on your back for hours on end.
I have walked the Coast to Coast Path, Offa’s Dyke Path and cycled Land’s End to John O’Groats twice. On all of these adventures (and they were adventures) I camped and used a Coleman Avior X2. This tent is no longer made, (why, is beyond me, as it was a cracking little tent) and while it would not suit everyone, I loved it. This tent never once failed me, handling everything mother nature chucked at it – I still have it and still use it. However, it is classed as a two man tent and it does weigh in at 2.45kgs. A few years ago I did not consider this to be any great issue, and I was one of those people that took with me everything I thought I may need, rather than just everything I would need. I was somewhat younger and fitter then, so lugging around a 21kg rucksack was manageable... but still bloody hard!
Nowadays, with dodgy knees, dodgy back and the odd twinge from my hips, my outlook has changed. Less is more!
So less tent weight is important for me now, but I still want certain features, so I’m still willing to sacrifice a little weight-saving for functionality and convenience. Now, I do tend to compare everything to my much-loved Coleman Avior X2, as it provided me with all the features I required, and so it does give me a solid foundation on which to make comparisons, so please bear with me.
Tent season ratings
Before I go on, just a quick word about the season ratings of a tent. Any half-decent tent is rated as at least a 2/3 season tent, a 3 season tent, a 4 season tent or a 4/5 season tent for extreme camping. The difference being that a true 4+ season tent is designed to cope with torrential rain, very high winds and snow. The 4+ season tent will usually have a snow skirt, it will feature thicker, stronger tent poles (usually more of), more guylines and generally be of a semi-geodesic or geodesic design for strength and stability. Four season tents are designed to be more robust, but all this will come at a cost in terms of weight. In the UK, a good 3 season tent will usually be adequate for most of the year round unless you plan on camping atop Ben Nevis in the heart of winter. Note also, that a 4 season tent will generally be overkill for any other time of the year but winter, and will likely suffer more condensation issues.
Whatever the particular season rating of your tent, it is still important to understand its limitations. There are some lightweight tents that, by design, will handle heavy rain but will be very poor and unstable in windy conditions. Heavy winds are often far more of a challenge to a tent than heavy rain, so do bear this in mind, as very lightweight tents by their very nature are not often the most rugged and durable.
Tent design
Tent design itself is critical. There’s no point in having a ultralight tent that is so unstable or with fabric so weak that it won’t handle a bit of wind without collapsing or shredding, or ridiculously thin, weak tent poles that break the first time you use the tent. But the tent design itself will also lend itself to features that are or aren’t particularly desirable, or will or won’t suit your individual requirements. For example, it’s no use buying a tent that is not free-standing when you will be mainly camping on rocky terrain where it may be impossible to properly secure tent pegs into the ground, or buying a 2 pole 3 season tent and expect it to survive high up on the hills where you get gale force winds, and where you would really need a multi-pole geodesic design of tent.
And don't buy a tent that, by design, is low profile and hence too small to sit up in, if you want to be able to sit up!
My Coleman Avior X2, has realistically, comfortably, only enough room for myself and my gear, but it was roomy enough to sit up in and indeed get changed in. It pitched fast, with the inner left attached to the outer, and stood up to wind and heavy rain with no issues whatsoever. I never cook in my tent, always preferring a local pub, so a cooking area is never an issue for me, but for some folk this may be a key requirement. That said, no manufacturer of small one/two person tents would ever recommend that you cook inside a small tent - there is so much potential for complete disaster, and it only takes one minor mishap for it all to end in tears!
Two-man tent... Err, no, I don't think so!
As most backpackers, and lightweight campers in general know, the term 'two man' or 'two person' tent has to be taken with a pinch of salt. Many so-called ‘lightweight two man tents’ are, in reality, one-and-a-half man, one man and a young child, one man and his dog, one man with gear, or two (well acquainted) small men with just their sunglasses. And this pretty well applies to what ever the ‘man’ rating of the tent, i.e. a lightweight three man tent is generally only practical for two people and their gear.
The times I see tent reviews where the purchaser obviously has not done their homework and has slagged a good tent because they had expected to be able to get him, her, the dog, all their gear and still have space to cook, in a tiny, lightweight two man tent!
Tent reviews
And, while we are on tent reviews, it is generally accepted that a greater proportion of people only leave reviews when they are not happy bunnies, that is, when they have an axe to grind, which can lead to a great distortion in ratings and a general disservice to the tent in question. You may see a tent with thirty '5 star' reviews and ten lowly '1 star' reviews, leading you to think that one in four people thought the tent was absolute rubbish, but the reality will be that a much greater percentage of folk have for one reason or another left a bad review. By this I mean that people who are very happy with their purchase are less likely to leave any review at all. That said, there are often some suspiciously good reviews for blatantly poor tents too... and indeed often a highly suspicious number of good reviews. Even ultra-cheap and cheerful so-called ‘festival’ tents can have mind-bogglingly good reviews, but then they are often only used for a few days at summer festivals by inexperienced campers, and at throw-away prices they adequately serve their purpose and folks are happy. But no serious backpacker/bikepacker would ever look twice at such a tent.
You will also find good reviews for tents that have only been erected in the back garden (or even a living room!) and so are effectively untested in the real world. And you always get the illiterate halfwit of a reviewer that has trouble spelling their own name and who scores the tent on something totally unrelated to the tent itself, like a good or bad delivery service, or because the colour nicely matches their shirt! Fair enough, there are some badly designed, poorly manufactured tents that deserve what they get, but quite often people leaving very bad, critical reviews have simply invested in an unsuitable tent - no fault but their own. Others are new to this outdoor life and simply do not understand tents or camping and seem to expect 5 star accommodation from something that weighs a couple of kilograms!
And again, you also see similar tent reviews on YouTube, whereby somebody gives a glowing recommendation to a tent, saying how wonderful it is, after basically just erecting it in a field on a nice sunny day. Or the person who attempts to review a tent when it is quite clear that they have absolutely no prior knowledge of tents or camping and appear to struggle to even understand the concept of a tent! These so-called reviews provide absolutely no insight as to how the tent performs in the field, how it copes with the weather, how it sleeps, or the reliability of its components, nor do they usually provide any useful in-depth detail. Just erecting a tent and saying, 'Look, it's a great tent', is not a review! Then there are so-called 'reviews' that are clearly aimed simply at promoting the sales of the tent and so are again not a true review as such, but merely a promotional advert. This is where you have to be careful, because not until you actually put the tent to proper use, out in the field on a genuine camping trip or a trek, along with your rucksack and all your kit, will you really be able to evaluate how well the tent stands up to less than ideal weather conditions, and indeed how well it performs overall.
Do your research
The key is, do your research. Don’t buy a tent with an inner that is only 5 foot 10 inches in length and then rate it lowly because it is too small, when you are 6 foot 3 inches tall! After a while you will learn to separate the genuinely 'useful reviews' from the, let’s just say, 'less than useful reviews'. A pet hate of mine is when a reviewer marks a tent down because of their own failure to understand what they are buying; they buy a tent on a whim, or impulse buy, and then severely criticise the tent for not being suitable. For example, people who rate a tent lowly because they can not sit up in it. For some reason they blame the tent for their own inability to research the tent or read the specifications... Doh! Another review that comes to mind is the person who gave a tiny bivvy tent a low rating because there was no cooking area… What?! Yes, you know who you are. Research. Research. Research! It’s not hard nowadays with the internet.
All the information is out there, so don't buy on a whim and don't rush into buying a tent without doing your homework first. Remember, it's horses for courses, and a tent that suits one person may be totally inadequate and unsuitable for another person. There is no point whatsoever purchasing an ultralight 1.2kg tent if it’s simply not big enough for your needs, and you have to sleep with your feet sticking out of the door!
But I digress...
So, I’m looking for a lightweight two man or one man tent to suit my particular needs.
I don’t want to have to leave my rucksack and boots outside the tent at night, so I want enough internal space, preferably a large enough vestibule (porch area), to store my kit. So bivvy tents or tiny one man coffin tents are not for me. I definitely want a tent with quality aluminium alloy poles; they are lighter than fibreglass poles and more likely just to bend in extremes rather than snap – you hear about so many trips ruined by broken, cheap fibreglass tent poles.
Which reminds me. Before my first long distance walk (Offa’s Dyke Path), and before I knew much about what I wanted from a tent, I hastily purchased a Gelert Solo (now I believe also re-branded as the Blackthorn Highlander 1) and very similar to the Hi-Gear Solista. On delivery I immediately set it up in the back garden and realised that this tiny fabric coffin-like tent, that appeared to internally be not much larger than a bivvy bag, was not for me. At 16.5 stones and 5’11, I found just getting in and out very tricky - it looked much bigger in the photos on the website! There was hardly any room to move and turn, and at 5'11" my head was pushing into the inner tent material one end and my feet were pushing hard into the inner tent material the other end - this was a very short tent! At the highest point it was just 65cm, and at the time I seriously wondered if I had been sent the child's version. That said, I see reviews for this tent whereby someone 6'3" says that it is a comfortable length for them, and conversely someone at 5'8" saying that it is too short... what's that all about? Just bonkers! Anyway, I could not even come close to sitting up in the Gelert and it was apparent that I would not be able to easily get changed in this tiny tent, and that even just getting in and out of my sleeping bag could be an issue. And if you don't particularly like enclosed, small spaces, then forget it! It was a bargain at £17 (or it seemed like a bargain at the time) and only weighed just over 1.6kg, which were the real attractions, but this is when I realised that weight-saving is not the be-all and end-all. The fly and the floor of the Gelert Solo only had a hydrostatic head rating of 1500mm (my kagool was rated higher) and the poles were truly, truly awful - mine were a sloppy fit into the poorly made aluminium ferrules and the fibreglass poles themselves looked more like lengths of black charcoal. Anyway, as I took it down, one of the cheap and nasty fibreglass poles split and it became a non-issue - it’s been in a cupboard ever since. But don't just take my word for it, see: Amazon Reviews
There are some seriously bad reviews for the Gelert Solo, which do tend to highlight some glaring quality issues with this tent. However, and rather puzzlingly, I’ve seen reviews of the Gelert Solo, whereby people have been very happy, some people can’t recommend it highly enough – even when having to constantly repair or replace broken poles... very strange indeed! There appears to be somewhat of a cult following for the Gelert Solo, and I do struggle to get my head round this, though I guess it all comes down to expectations, and if you don't expect too much then a cheap, budget tent may suffice. Personally I would not want to put my faith in a tent whilst on a two week adventure trip in the back of beyond, knowing that the tent poles could give up at anytime and I could be left shelterless, at night, in the pouring rain, miles from anywhere... But, if your tent budget only extends to £20, and you are only camping a couple of nights, then I guess you take the gamble and learn to live with your decision.
Now I would like to get the tent weight down to under 2kgs, but still have somewhere to put my rucksack and boots. My old Avior X2 with both a side and end entrance excelled here as, at the end opening, there is a vestibule area large enough for all my gear. I could then either access my gear from the inner tent or from the outside. I only ever used the end entrance for storage, always preferring to enter and exit the tent from the long side entrance. It really was an ideal arrangement for me.
One of my LEJOG travelling companions had a Vango Banshee 200, which by all accounts is also a good little tent, and he was very happy with it. The build quality and the fabrics were right up there. His Banshee was an older version with just the one side entrance and weighed in at around 2kgs (I believe the latest Banshees have two side entrances and perhaps slightly upgraded materials, but are also a heftier 2.35kgs – see, even Vango seem to have sacrificed some weight-saving for practicality). His Banshee was shorter internally and physically smaller externally than my Avior X2, but gave a weight saving of nearly 0.5kg over my Coleman. However, my pal had to sleep with his gear in the inner tent with him, whereas my 0.5kg weight penalty afforded me the luxury of greater sleeping space and my gear out of the way in the vestibule. At the time I was quite happy to pay the 0.5kg penalty for the greater comfort and convenience. Bearing in mind that both of these tents are described and sold as two man tents, my friend and his Banshee would not possibly sleep two people including their kit, and even my Coleman with its porch area for kit would seriously struggle to accommodate two people and kit.
Share the weight
While I’m thinking about it, if you always backpack as a couple or with a companion, then sharing the weight of a slightly larger three man tent can be beneficial. Usually the weight increase between two and three man tents is relatively little. OK, it is too heavy and too bulky for one person to carry alone, but when shared, the three man version of the same tent is considerably less weight than one person carrying a two person tent - and in many cases even a one person tent. Of course sharing has its downsides (you’ll think of a few), and myself I’m far happier having the tent to myself. When I first walked Offa’s Dyke Path, I was originally going to do the walk with a friend, and indeed we had considered sharing a three man tent. However, my friend could be somewhat unreliable, so I decided this might not be such a good idea and opted for the Coleman Avior X2, two man tent. And I’m glad I did, as my mate pulled out a week before we were due to set off, so if we had purchased a three man tent I would have been lumbered with unnecessary weight and an unnecessarily large tent. Anyway, back to the script…
Tents on a diet
Manufacturers can reduce the overall weight of their tents by employing lighter materials. Lower denier ratings of the flysheet and flooring can reduce weight, but this inevitably comes at some cost to strength, resilience, durability and indeed waterproofness. A flysheet with a denier rating of 15D will be much lighter than a flysheet with a denier rating of 70D of the same material, but the 70D flysheet will be far more robust and durable. There are even some ultralight tents available now that are employing just 7D flysheets... super ultra-lightweight, yes, but blimey this is very thin fabric! You would also expect the floor fabric to be of a higher denier or slightly different material to the flysheet (often a thicker Oxford weave), as the floor will be taking a lot more abuse and potentially be subjected to much greater wear and tear. A ridiculously low denier floor rating would always concern me. Remember, weight-saving always comes at a cost.
And indeed, when all other avenues have been exhausted, one area that manufacturers drastically reduce weight is the floor material or groundsheet of the tent. All good modern lightweight tents have waterproof bathtub floors which are sewn onto the inner tent. In the old days this floor material was quite heavy, robust and durable, often some form of rubber or a laminate of materials, and a very different material to the inner and outer tent fabrics. Nowadays, in order to minimise weight, the floor material is often very similar to the lightweight outer flysheet fabric but with a higher denier rating and usually with a higher hydrostatic head.
Tent floors
And so this is where I come to another bugbear of mine. Modern lightweight tent flooring fabric, though it can be made extremely waterproof, it is by nature very thin and so much less resilient, hence much more prone to damage by sharp objects (thorns, stones, etc.) than the thicker, heavier materials of old. Of course manufacturers know this, but they also know that their advertised ultralight tent sells primarily due to its advertised 'ultra-light weight'. The last thing they want to do is design in a more resilient tent floor that will add grams to the overall weight of the tent. They mitigate this issue by recommending that you use the tent with an additional groundsheet, commonly termed a ‘footprint’. That's progress for you!
Picture this:
“Yes Sir, this tent is £499 but only weighs 1kg. However, in order not to invalidate the warranty you will need to purchase an additional footprint that costs a further £65 and weighs 0.5kg” !!
OK, maybe a little exaggeration on my part, but you can see my gripe here.
And in any case, the super-ultralight backpacker that drills holes in his toothbrush handle and removes the labels from his clothing in order to save weight would think it absolute sacrilege to carry an additional groundsheet!
There are pros and cons to everything, but when I camp out in a lightweight tent, and in order to protect the floor, I always lay my bright orange polythene survival bag down on the ground first. I always carry it with me as an emergency shelter anyway, but it very effectively doubles as a small tent additional groundsheet. And indeed this arrangement worked perfectly well with my Coleman tent over many years. And to this date I have never, ever suffered damage to my tent's groundsheet.
Hydrostatic head (HH)
A quick word about the hydrostatic head of a material (its waterproofness).
An outer tent material (flysheet) with, for example, a hydrostatic head of 2000mm can effectively withstand the pressure of a static column of water 2 metres high before water ingress - that is before the pressure will force water through the material - so actually, quite a lot! Any material with a hydrostatic head of 1000mm or above is considered waterproof, and in a UK summer, a tent employing a flysheet with a hydrostatic head of between 1000mm - 2000mm is normally quite adequate to keep water out. That said, the minimum hydrostatic head generally considered as waterproof for a UK three season tent is 1500mm. So a tent with a flysheet hydrostatic head of 2000mm - 2500mm is accepted as being more than adequate for UK three season camping and all nature can throw at it.
For peace of mind you may just want to pay a little more for a tent employing material with a higher hydrostatic head if you intend or expect to regularly use your tent in very extreme weather conditions. However, there is no point in paying an excessive amount of your hard-earned money for a tent with a flysheet hydrostatic head of 5000mm if you only camp out a for few nights in your back garden in the height of summer. Furthermore, higher hydrostatic head figures can be extremely overkill and often seem to be just another marketing ploy in an attempt to encourage you to part with a larger amount of your cash. So, unless you plan on camping underneath a waterfall, the flysheet of a tent with a 5000mm hydrostatic head will never noticeably perform any differently to that of a tent with a 2000mm hydrostatic head. Think of it this way; you could buy a Ford Fiesta or a Ferrari, and both will easily attain the 70mph UK national speed limit. The fact that the Ferrari can exceed the 70mph national speed limit by far more than the Fiesta is in many ways irrelevant!
Some budget tents come with heavy fabric flysheets with very low hydrostatic heads in order to keep costs down to a minimum, but conversely, some top brand name, very expensive tents employ very thin, lightweight fabrics with quite low hydrostatic heads in order to keep weight down to a minimum. Horses for courses! But do bear in mind that - all things being equal - thinner, lightweight materials are also often far less robust and durable than their thicker, heavier counterparts.
But of course it's not at all straightforward and it can get somewhat complicated. For instance, silicone-coated nylon flysheets usually have a greater tear strength than slightly heavier polyester fabrics due to the way that the silicone impregnates the nylon - even moreso with ultra-lightweight double silicone-treated nylon flysheets (Silnylon). Silnylon is nylon that has both sides treated with silicone.
However, there is only a certain amount of silicone that can be taken up by very thin nylon, so the thinner the nylon fabric, the lower the hydrostatic head tends to be - yet another trade-off! This is why you see some ultra-lightweight top brand name tents with very lightweight fabric flysheets that have a much lower hydrostatic heads - usually limited to around 1500mm. Take for example some of the more pricey, but best selling MSR and Big Agnes backpacking tents that feature a flysheet with a hydrostatic head rating of just 1200mm!
Top end ultralight tents tend to use nylon because it can be made of a lower denier rating, and hence ultimately producing a lower weight fabric. Whereas the current manufacturing process for nylon is able to produce really fine nylon filaments (ie. 7D), the polyester manufacturing process currently bottoms out at around 20D.
Another point, however, is that whereas nylon fibres are somewhat hydrophilic, polyester fibres are somewhat hydrophobic - that is, nylon fibres readily absorb water, polyester fibres do not. This means that a silicone or PU-coated nylon tent will stretch and hence sag when wetted, but a silicone or PU-coated polyester flysheet tends not to stretch, and hence is not prone to sag in the same way a nylon tent does. And this can be an important (and often overlooked factor), as it can influence the tents performance, particularly on some designs of tents with nylon flysheets.
Yet another point to note... and here we go again... is that polyester is naturally more UV resistant than nylon, so although nylon may have a greater initial tear strength than polyester, UV damage can degrade the nylon fibres relatively quickly and so will eventually reduce its tear strength to below that of the polyester.
As alluded to above, some of the most expensive ultra-lightweight big brand name tents tend to have flysheets made from Silnylon, which is a strong and very lightweight material. However, unlike other materials, Silnylon does not lend itself to having the seams of the tent conventionally tape-sealed at the factory of manufacture, because the sealing tape will not adhere to the silicone. Fair enough. However, instead of sealing the seams in some other more ‘unconventional’ manner at the factory, they sell you the tent for hundreds of pounds of your hard-earned dosh and advise you to buy some sealant and seal the seams yourself… What? C’mon…! Or is it just me that has an issue with this…?
So there you go, once again, life is simply never simple! The choice of course is yours, and if every gram counts then perhaps spending £600 on a high-end ultralight Silnylon tent is justifiable. But just be aware that as the weight of the ultralight tent comes down, often so too does is durability and other specifications.
Because Silnylon does not lend itself to internal seam sealing, it is not uncommon for some manufacturers to use fabric that is silicone impregnated on the outside, but polyurethane (PU) coated on the inside, which then does allow the seams to be tape sealed. Just as seam sealing tape will not bond to a silicone-coated fabric, neither does it accept printing. A good way to tell an exterior silicone-coated tent fabric is that the brand name, logo, etc, will be printed on the inside, on the PU coating.
The hydrostatic head of the floor fabric is often of far greater importance, as your body weight pushing the floor down into wet ground is effectively the same as a large column of water pushing from the other side. In such circumstances some ingress of water may occur with such actions as kneeling, where a lot of your body weight is in one spot, but generally not when lying down. The higher the hydrostatic head of the floor fabric, the greater chance the inside of your tent floor stays dry, which is why the hydrostatic head of the floor material is often higher than that of the flysheet, and why you can often acquire an additional groundsheet (or dedicated footprint) to use with your tent if you expect to be camping in more inclement weather.
Outer flysheet vs inner pitching fist tents
This can be a great bone of contention. Many people will tell you that outer pitching first tents are better as you can put up the flysheet without getting the inner tent wet when it's raining, and yes this would seem to make perfect sense, however crawling around on soggy wet ground on your hands and knees to then attach the inner of a small tent will not be a great deal of fun. The flip-side here is that other people actually prefer inner pitching first tents as, on hot summer nights, these tents can be erected with just the inner to protect you from midges and creepy-crawlies with the flysheet left off altogether - something that flysheet first tents won't usually allow. Another consideration is that when facing extremely windy weather a flysheet pitching first tent will usually have pole sleeves on the outside that actually catch the wind far more than an inner pitch first tent whereby the poles are internal, and the flysheet contours are then effectively far smoother for the wind to flow over. All little things to be considered.
And consider this: Many big brand names such as Terra Nova feature inner pitch first tents. The Terra Nova Quasar and Voyager immediately spring to mind; and such inner pitch first tents are claimed to offer a more stable structure in extreme conditions due to the poles being less exposed. So as always, nothing is straightforward, and there is not necessarily any definitive right or wrong, better or worse.
What are you actually getting for the specified weight?
Some of the very high-end, big brand name tents reduce the overall weight of their tents by including titanium tent pegs, and indeed a decent shepherd’s crook, 3mm x 150mm, titanium tent peg is very strong and weighs in at just 5 - 6 grams. However, even here some manufacturers take it to the extreme, providing titanium tent pegs that weigh a mere 2 grams - or even 1 gram! Great weight-saving, and while they may do for pinning down a groundsheet, in less than perfect conditions you really would want something more substantial than a toothpick holding down your flysheet. And while the 2 gram titanium tent pegs are generally inadequate and mostly unfit for purpose, themselves bordering on ridiculous, the 1 gram tent pegs are 'ridiculous' taken to a whole new level! And whoever thought it a good idea to supply high-end, very expensive tents with 1 gram tent pegs, seriously needs their head looking at!
And be careful when looking at total tent weights. Tents are often specified with a 'gross' weight and a 'minimum' weight or 'trail' weight, and often the minimum weight is that which is promoted. So always check to see what the stated weight actually includes, because along with the recommended footprint, some suppliers do not include the weight of the tent pegs, guylines, tent stuff sack, tent poles bag, etc. The minimum weight figure always looks far more enticing than the gross weight figure, but the reality is that your tent won't be of much use without tent pegs and guylines.
Another potential area for weight-saving is the inner tent material. An inner tent made primarily of nylon no-see-um bug mesh (fine netting), will inevitably weigh less than a inner tent made primarily of full breathable polyester material. But then the mesh inner will certainly be colder and more draughty than the full polyester material inner.
Full mesh inner tent = reduced weight = colder. Slightly heavier full fabric inner tent = warmer = more weight.
Four season tents with storm flaps or snow skirts keep the draughts out but tend to be heavier and obviously provide less air flow which can lead to a build-up of condensation. Conversely a tent with no storm flaps or snow skirt may well be free of condensation, but quite draughty. I’ve also seen contrasting poor reviews given to the very same tent, one was because it was considered too cold and draughty, and one was because it was considered too hot without enough ventilation! Swings and roundabouts. But again you also have to consider where and when they camped, and just who has left the review… an experienced, hardened camper, or a fresh-faced, new-to-this-game camper who is relatively clueless. Whatever the case, you simply can’t have everything, and depending on conditions most tents tend to excel in one particular area, while falling down slightly - or miserably - in other areas. You simply can not expect an ultralight three season tent with a mesh inner, to perform well in up a mountain, in the snow, in the depths of winter.
A little more on condensation
Of course if a flysheet is designed to keep water out, then it follows, by its very nature, that it will also keep water in. That is, under certain conditions, moisture from your breath and heat from your body will cause water in the air to condense on the inside of your waterproof flysheet when it is colder outside. Now this will happen with all tents, but small one and two man tents are particularly prone to the formation of condensation simply because of the more confined space.
With reference to tents, condensation is often a very misunderstood thing. I'm often surprised by the amount of people that knock a tent because of the formation of condensation on the inner of their tent flysheet, as if this just should not happen. Unfortunately, as one famous Scot once said, 'Ye cannae change the laws of physics'. It's all down to science and it won't change any time in the near future!
Condensation will happen, its a fact of life. In colder conditions condensation will form on the inside of your flysheet, but it is what then happens with this condensation that really matters, and indeed where tent design can play a major role. If it runs harmlessly down the inside of your tent flysheet to the ground, then fine, no problem. If tent air circulation removes it at a rate that prevents it from dripping into your inner tent, then again, fine, no harm done. However, if condensation builds up to a point whereby it is literally dripping off the inside of your flysheet and onto your inner tent, then it may be a concern. If the inner tent is just lightweight nylon bug mesh, then condensation may drip straight though onto you. However, if your tent has a solid breathable polyester inner, then any condensation dripping from the flysheet may actually just dampen the inner tent fabric, spreading and dispersing harmlessly so never actually finding its way through to you, and that's quite acceptable.
The condensation your tent may experience comes down to two major things, firstly the weather conditions, and secondly the size of your tent flysheet air vents - if any - and/or whether or not your flysheet is tight to the ground or not. Tents with flysheets that sit off the ground all round will allow more air flow between the flysheet and the inner tent, so reducing condensation to a great degree, however, when it's very windy, raised flysheets will result in a very draughty tent... and in cold, windy weather, a very cold, draughty tent!
Now I've read some silly things about tents with more mesh inner tents being better at reducing condensation. This really is total nonsense and a sign that the seller doesn't know what they are talking about, because all inner tents are designed to be breathable and it is not the inner tent that suffers condensation (unless for some inexplicable reason it is made to be waterproof!).
Apart from the built-in groundsheet, the inner tent is NOT waterproof and nor should it be, as it is this 'breathable' characteristic that allows moisture out - away from you - and into the area between the inner tent and the flysheet. Your tent flysheet air vents and the wind conditions will directly affect the condensation that you experience. On a windy night, the air travelling through your tent may well take the condensation away as it appears, whereas on a night with little or no breeze, then your tent may experience considerable condensation. The size of your tent flysheet air vents will obviously come into play here, and while bigger air vents may help reduce condensation, the downside is that you will have a much draughtier, potentially colder tent. Swings and roundabouts! The very way you pitch your tent relative to the wind and weather conditions can also make a big difference.
By design, some 3 season tents have their flysheet slightly raised up from the ground which also allows air to circulate better within the tent and so aid the prevention of condensation. I think the main issue with condensation is that people simply do not understand it and expect a good tent to be condensation free. Never going to happen! There may be some tents that, by design, better control condensation, but you will not find a tent that is condensation free in all conditions... no matter how much you are prepared to spend.
Check out Hilleberg's condensation page: Hilleberg Condensation Information
If you experience some condensation, simply giving the flysheet a good shake and, conditions or time allowing, airing it for a few minutes before it packing away is usually all it takes to remove the worst. And then if packing away in the one stuff sack, roll up the tent in such a manner that the inner tent is not directly in contact with any moisture remaining on the flysheet. I do exactly this when I'm backpacking, and I never worry about the inner tent getting a little damp. You don't always have the luxury of waiting for your flysheet to dry out before packing away, so if it's packed damp but you will be erecting the tent again later in the day, then don't worry as it will quickly all dry out naturally. Of course, in order to avoid tent damage from mould or mildew, the tent fabrics should be totally dry if packing away the tent for any considerable amount of time - as in, after your camping trip has finished.
Now, hardier, heavier and sturdier four season geodesic and semi-geodesic tents can suffer real condensation issues, because by their very nature they are designed to keep all the unfavourable elements out: wind, rain, snow, etc. Under extreme conditions it is far more important to keep out the weather and retain heat within the tent, and with snow skirts and very small air vents, condensation can really build up. Under these circumstances, four season tents rely heavily on the tent design to allow the inevitable condensation to harmlessly run off the inside of the flysheet to ground. Unlike four season tents, three season tents tend to have larger air vents and/or better airflow by design. Along with flysheet air vents, and with no storm flaps or snow skirts, and with a flysheet that is raised slightly from the ground to allow for much better all round ventilation, most small three season tents can avoid any real condensation issues. But, as already mentioned, it is always a trade-off, good ventilation within the tent can help reduce condensation, but this can then make for a much colder, draughtier tent. The reality is that condensation is all just part and parcel of the wonderful outdoor camping experience!
Good, value for money lightweight tents
Unless money is no object, then high on your priority list will be cost. High-end ultralight tents can cost an arm and a leg, but if you do your research you can often find a lightweight tent that will more than meet your needs at a fraction of the cost, without sacrificing quality or making too big a compromise. And who doesn’t enjoy getting value for money?
When I research tents, I’m looking for a good, value for money tent that exactly suits my needs. However, I often find that the sacrifices in functionality, robustness, performance, reliability and general practicality can not be justified by the saving of just a few grams. Alloy tent poles that are made thinner to save weight are more likely to bend or buckle; less stable tent designs that save weight are more likely to distort or collapse in bad weather; less durable lightweight tent floors are more prone to punctures; those ridiculous 1 gram titanium tent pegs that stand no chance of holding in the ground from even the slightest gentle breeze. All these things reduce the weight you carry on your back, but sadly can also greatly effect how the tent functions and indeed performs in the real world.
Just be careful if you are looking into purchasing an ultralight tent. That ultra-lightweight advertised may not be quite so ultralight at all when you have to use an additional groundsheet and update those totally pointless 1 gram tent pegs to something functional. And this is to say nothing of the extra cost involved after already paying a small fortune for the tent.
So what tents out there can give my trusty Coleman Avior X2 a run for its money?
Here at STATION13, before we invest in tents, we need to know that the tent or tents that we supply to you, will not only be lightweight, made of quality materials and display quality workmanship, but also provide adequately for your needs, live up to your expectations in the real world… and not cost an arm and a leg.
We don't expect tents to be perfect in every respect or perfect for every particular individual, but they must be fit for purpose and good all round tents. Remember, we are looking for good value for money, high quality, one man and two man tents.
After doing our research, two tents that we have been very interested in, are manufactured by GeerTop of China. What attracted us to these two tents in particular, and indeed this China manufacturer, is the fact their tents do seem to be relatively high spec, high quality tents, they seem like a very reputable company - we’d not heard anything bad about their products... and, most importantly, both are very lightweight tents!
With the quality of the tent being of foremost importance to us, and GeerTop of China looking to be a genuinely good company providing genuinely good products, we imported samples of these two tents to evaluate. Both are lightweight one person backpacking tents.
These tents are the GeerTop TOPWIND 1, lightweight one man tent and the GeerTop PYRAMID, lightweight one man tent. The GeerTop TOPWIND 1 we were sent has the yellow flysheet (but is also available in red), and the GeerTop PYRAMID has the iron blue flysheet.
Click HERE to go to the TOPWIND 1 additional information page.
Click HERE to go to the PYRAMID additional information page.
Since the above was written, we have moved on considerably as an online camping equipment business. We have grown over the last few years and now have a far greater range of lightweight one and two person tents available, many manufactured specifically for us and to our specifications.
Please don't hesitate to contact us if you require any help or additional information regarding our products.
There are of course all manner of camping tents to suit all manner of camping and all manner of individual requirements, from enormous family tents to tiny, solo backpacking tents. And even within any specific tent category you will find a truly vast range of prices. For example, two person tents can range from cheap throwaway £15 festival tents to similar size tents costing close to the £1000 mark!
Here, at STATION13, our interest is only in the small, one man and two man camping tents for lightweight camping, backpacking and bikepacking.
This page is here to provide you with a wealth of information on small backpacking/bikepacking tents in general and so arm you with enough knowledge to make an informed decision before committing to buy a tent. Please do also take a look at our '2 Person Tents - Additional Information' website pages.
Even in this category of camping tents there is a vast array of options, and what suits one person may not suit another. And then of course there is your budget to consider. Not everyone can afford to fork out for the most expensive, lightest, highest spec tent available. And indeed, you will find that even with the most expensive, lightest tents, from big name brands, there are always trade-offs. That is to say, there is no such thing as a universally perfect lightweight tent.
What I mean by this, is that to reduce overall weight, something has to give somewhere else. Fair enough, ditching relatively heavy and weaker fibreglass tent poles for lighter and stronger aluminium alloy poles makes perfect sense, but there comes a point whereby, even using the best, lightest, most costly, cutting edge materials, the only way to further reduce weight is by compromising on some other aspect of the tent. Thinner tent poles, one tent pole as opposed to two tent poles, much thinner materials, six tent pegs as opposed to eight, smaller sleeping area, no vestibule, etc - all things that can possibly decrease the robustness and reliability of the tent and also reduce overall functionality.
Like I said, there are always trade-offs. To keep weight down to a minimum, sacrifices elsewhere have to be made, which in essence means that when looking for your ideal tent, you will need to prioritise.
The weight of your tent
Weight is most often the number one priority, and for good reason. No backpacker wants to carry any more weight than necessary, however there does come a point whereby reducing the weight of the tent to an extreme can result in a far less practical tent, offering less comfort and greater hardship – two things you probably won’t enjoy after a long day hiking. Now you can get ultra-lightweight tents that only weigh a kilogram or less, provide enough space for you and your pack, and allow you a very good nights sleep. Of course the very latest, cutting edge, ultra-lightweight fabrics come at a price, and you could by a decent second hand car for the price of some tents in this category. And, be aware that these ultra-high priced tents are not themselves automatically the best tent for your needs, and indeed, if you do your research and check out feedback, they are not infallible or indeed totally without their issues. In fact you will often find that the very expensive ultralight tents will not be particularly durable and indeed will fare no better, if not worse, than much lower cost tents under certain conditions... particularly in exposed situations involving high winds. And, if you expect to be continually camping in very unpleasant and unforgiving weather, then it may well pay to opt for a slightly more robust tent that features heavier, but more resilient fabrics. Just keep in mind that many of the ultralight tents massively prioritise weight saving over durability, and whilst they may be great for UK summer months, or sunnier climes, some of these ultralight tents will potentially struggle in inclement weather, and indeed more extreme UK weather conditions.
If these high-end, high performance, ultralight tents are out of your price range, but you still only want to carry around a kilogram, then bivvy bags or small one man ‘coffin’ tents (bivvy tents) are an option. However, you will likely have to leave your rucksack and other gear outside, be comfortable sleeping in such a confined space, and certainly not suffer from claustrophobia... and it's worth bearing in mind that condensation can be much more of an issue with coffin tents and bivvy bags in particular. Some people get on great with these tiny one man bivvy tents, but I must admit I do prefer at little comfort at the end of a hard day - a tent roomy enough for me to get changed in, store my gear inside with me, and have at least a little head room. Sometimes, particularly if budget is a major issue, then the comfort, convenience and sheer practicality afforded by slogging an extra ½ kg or so around, is well justifiable. But that’s just my opinion. If that extra ½ kg is going to cripple you or make your life a total misery, then unless you have an unlimited budget, you obviously have less options.
Of course it is quite easy to find a tent that meets my requirements, and for a very decent price, if I'm willing to accept that I will have to carry around 2.5 – 2.7kgs. However, if I want to shave a kilogram or so off the weight, then finding a tent that meets my specific requirements at a half-decent price is a whole different matter. As the grams come off, the tent prices tend to start soaring.
The key thing when looking for a suitable tent, is to know exactly what you want in the first place. Once you have determined what you are looking for in a tent, and what your budget is, then you have a good basis to start your research. Given the vast array of tents available, until you know exactly what your personal requirements are, then finding the most suitable tent for your specific needs will, to say the least, be very difficult.
You get what you pay for
As with many things, the old adage ‘You get what you pay for’ is often banded about when it comes to lightweight tents, and while there is always a certain truth to this saying, you can also, very easily, ‘Overpay for what you get’! Many people tend to shy way from anything made in China, however, the reality is that many of the bigger brand names, though based in the UK, USA or wherever, all have their products manufactured in China. So, if the tent is of quality material, quality construction and performs, I would not be overly concerned by this.
In fact, when we were researching tents to source from China, looking for a reputable and reliable supplier, we found that you can find various versions of almost identical looking tents, some seemingly at substantial cost-savings. However, although outwardly they may appear identical, this is not the case, and indeed is far from true. When we looked a little deeper we saw that the differing versions are made to different standards and very different specifications, to suit different markets and indeed different pockets. Cost-saving and corner-cutting is evident on the cheaper versions: less waterproof flysheet; fibreglass poles, different inner tent materials and construction, and often more subtle hard-to-notice labour-saving construction differences that can impact performance in the field. Here, the old adage 'You get what you pay for' really does apply.
The biggest selling point for most one person and two person tents, and often the number one priority for any budding lightweight (or ultralight) solo backpacker, is weight. If you are travelling on a motorbike, or even cycling, lower weight and smaller pack size is important, but never as much so as when you are lugging your tent around all day, on your back, in a rucksack.
Cyclists can get away with a few more pounds, a small two man tent weighing 3 – 3.5kgs is not going to be crippling, but reducing this weight by 1 – 1.5kgs can make a hell of a difference when it’s on your back for hours on end.
I have walked the Coast to Coast Path, Offa’s Dyke Path and cycled Land’s End to John O’Groats twice. On all of these adventures (and they were adventures) I camped and used a Coleman Avior X2. This tent is no longer made, (why, is beyond me, as it was a cracking little tent) and while it would not suit everyone, I loved it. This tent never once failed me, handling everything mother nature chucked at it – I still have it and still use it. However, it is classed as a two man tent and it does weigh in at 2.45kgs. A few years ago I did not consider this to be any great issue, and I was one of those people that took with me everything I thought I may need, rather than just everything I would need. I was somewhat younger and fitter then, so lugging around a 21kg rucksack was manageable... but still bloody hard!
Nowadays, with dodgy knees, dodgy back and the odd twinge from my hips, my outlook has changed. Less is more!
So less tent weight is important for me now, but I still want certain features, so I’m still willing to sacrifice a little weight-saving for functionality and convenience. Now, I do tend to compare everything to my much-loved Coleman Avior X2, as it provided me with all the features I required, and so it does give me a solid foundation on which to make comparisons, so please bear with me.
Tent season ratings
Before I go on, just a quick word about the season ratings of a tent. Any half-decent tent is rated as at least a 2/3 season tent, a 3 season tent, a 4 season tent or a 4/5 season tent for extreme camping. The difference being that a true 4+ season tent is designed to cope with torrential rain, very high winds and snow. The 4+ season tent will usually have a snow skirt, it will feature thicker, stronger tent poles (usually more of), more guylines and generally be of a semi-geodesic or geodesic design for strength and stability. Four season tents are designed to be more robust, but all this will come at a cost in terms of weight. In the UK, a good 3 season tent will usually be adequate for most of the year round unless you plan on camping atop Ben Nevis in the heart of winter. Note also, that a 4 season tent will generally be overkill for any other time of the year but winter, and will likely suffer more condensation issues.
Whatever the particular season rating of your tent, it is still important to understand its limitations. There are some lightweight tents that, by design, will handle heavy rain but will be very poor and unstable in windy conditions. Heavy winds are often far more of a challenge to a tent than heavy rain, so do bear this in mind, as very lightweight tents by their very nature are not often the most rugged and durable.
Tent design
Tent design itself is critical. There’s no point in having a ultralight tent that is so unstable or with fabric so weak that it won’t handle a bit of wind without collapsing or shredding, or ridiculously thin, weak tent poles that break the first time you use the tent. But the tent design itself will also lend itself to features that are or aren’t particularly desirable, or will or won’t suit your individual requirements. For example, it’s no use buying a tent that is not free-standing when you will be mainly camping on rocky terrain where it may be impossible to properly secure tent pegs into the ground, or buying a 2 pole 3 season tent and expect it to survive high up on the hills where you get gale force winds, and where you would really need a multi-pole geodesic design of tent.
And don't buy a tent that, by design, is low profile and hence too small to sit up in, if you want to be able to sit up!
My Coleman Avior X2, has realistically, comfortably, only enough room for myself and my gear, but it was roomy enough to sit up in and indeed get changed in. It pitched fast, with the inner left attached to the outer, and stood up to wind and heavy rain with no issues whatsoever. I never cook in my tent, always preferring a local pub, so a cooking area is never an issue for me, but for some folk this may be a key requirement. That said, no manufacturer of small one/two person tents would ever recommend that you cook inside a small tent - there is so much potential for complete disaster, and it only takes one minor mishap for it all to end in tears!
Two-man tent... Err, no, I don't think so!
As most backpackers, and lightweight campers in general know, the term 'two man' or 'two person' tent has to be taken with a pinch of salt. Many so-called ‘lightweight two man tents’ are, in reality, one-and-a-half man, one man and a young child, one man and his dog, one man with gear, or two (well acquainted) small men with just their sunglasses. And this pretty well applies to what ever the ‘man’ rating of the tent, i.e. a lightweight three man tent is generally only practical for two people and their gear.
The times I see tent reviews where the purchaser obviously has not done their homework and has slagged a good tent because they had expected to be able to get him, her, the dog, all their gear and still have space to cook, in a tiny, lightweight two man tent!
Tent reviews
And, while we are on tent reviews, it is generally accepted that a greater proportion of people only leave reviews when they are not happy bunnies, that is, when they have an axe to grind, which can lead to a great distortion in ratings and a general disservice to the tent in question. You may see a tent with thirty '5 star' reviews and ten lowly '1 star' reviews, leading you to think that one in four people thought the tent was absolute rubbish, but the reality will be that a much greater percentage of folk have for one reason or another left a bad review. By this I mean that people who are very happy with their purchase are less likely to leave any review at all. That said, there are often some suspiciously good reviews for blatantly poor tents too... and indeed often a highly suspicious number of good reviews. Even ultra-cheap and cheerful so-called ‘festival’ tents can have mind-bogglingly good reviews, but then they are often only used for a few days at summer festivals by inexperienced campers, and at throw-away prices they adequately serve their purpose and folks are happy. But no serious backpacker/bikepacker would ever look twice at such a tent.
You will also find good reviews for tents that have only been erected in the back garden (or even a living room!) and so are effectively untested in the real world. And you always get the illiterate halfwit of a reviewer that has trouble spelling their own name and who scores the tent on something totally unrelated to the tent itself, like a good or bad delivery service, or because the colour nicely matches their shirt! Fair enough, there are some badly designed, poorly manufactured tents that deserve what they get, but quite often people leaving very bad, critical reviews have simply invested in an unsuitable tent - no fault but their own. Others are new to this outdoor life and simply do not understand tents or camping and seem to expect 5 star accommodation from something that weighs a couple of kilograms!
And again, you also see similar tent reviews on YouTube, whereby somebody gives a glowing recommendation to a tent, saying how wonderful it is, after basically just erecting it in a field on a nice sunny day. Or the person who attempts to review a tent when it is quite clear that they have absolutely no prior knowledge of tents or camping and appear to struggle to even understand the concept of a tent! These so-called reviews provide absolutely no insight as to how the tent performs in the field, how it copes with the weather, how it sleeps, or the reliability of its components, nor do they usually provide any useful in-depth detail. Just erecting a tent and saying, 'Look, it's a great tent', is not a review! Then there are so-called 'reviews' that are clearly aimed simply at promoting the sales of the tent and so are again not a true review as such, but merely a promotional advert. This is where you have to be careful, because not until you actually put the tent to proper use, out in the field on a genuine camping trip or a trek, along with your rucksack and all your kit, will you really be able to evaluate how well the tent stands up to less than ideal weather conditions, and indeed how well it performs overall.
Do your research
The key is, do your research. Don’t buy a tent with an inner that is only 5 foot 10 inches in length and then rate it lowly because it is too small, when you are 6 foot 3 inches tall! After a while you will learn to separate the genuinely 'useful reviews' from the, let’s just say, 'less than useful reviews'. A pet hate of mine is when a reviewer marks a tent down because of their own failure to understand what they are buying; they buy a tent on a whim, or impulse buy, and then severely criticise the tent for not being suitable. For example, people who rate a tent lowly because they can not sit up in it. For some reason they blame the tent for their own inability to research the tent or read the specifications... Doh! Another review that comes to mind is the person who gave a tiny bivvy tent a low rating because there was no cooking area… What?! Yes, you know who you are. Research. Research. Research! It’s not hard nowadays with the internet.
All the information is out there, so don't buy on a whim and don't rush into buying a tent without doing your homework first. Remember, it's horses for courses, and a tent that suits one person may be totally inadequate and unsuitable for another person. There is no point whatsoever purchasing an ultralight 1.2kg tent if it’s simply not big enough for your needs, and you have to sleep with your feet sticking out of the door!
But I digress...
So, I’m looking for a lightweight two man or one man tent to suit my particular needs.
I don’t want to have to leave my rucksack and boots outside the tent at night, so I want enough internal space, preferably a large enough vestibule (porch area), to store my kit. So bivvy tents or tiny one man coffin tents are not for me. I definitely want a tent with quality aluminium alloy poles; they are lighter than fibreglass poles and more likely just to bend in extremes rather than snap – you hear about so many trips ruined by broken, cheap fibreglass tent poles.
Which reminds me. Before my first long distance walk (Offa’s Dyke Path), and before I knew much about what I wanted from a tent, I hastily purchased a Gelert Solo (now I believe also re-branded as the Blackthorn Highlander 1) and very similar to the Hi-Gear Solista. On delivery I immediately set it up in the back garden and realised that this tiny fabric coffin-like tent, that appeared to internally be not much larger than a bivvy bag, was not for me. At 16.5 stones and 5’11, I found just getting in and out very tricky - it looked much bigger in the photos on the website! There was hardly any room to move and turn, and at 5'11" my head was pushing into the inner tent material one end and my feet were pushing hard into the inner tent material the other end - this was a very short tent! At the highest point it was just 65cm, and at the time I seriously wondered if I had been sent the child's version. That said, I see reviews for this tent whereby someone 6'3" says that it is a comfortable length for them, and conversely someone at 5'8" saying that it is too short... what's that all about? Just bonkers! Anyway, I could not even come close to sitting up in the Gelert and it was apparent that I would not be able to easily get changed in this tiny tent, and that even just getting in and out of my sleeping bag could be an issue. And if you don't particularly like enclosed, small spaces, then forget it! It was a bargain at £17 (or it seemed like a bargain at the time) and only weighed just over 1.6kg, which were the real attractions, but this is when I realised that weight-saving is not the be-all and end-all. The fly and the floor of the Gelert Solo only had a hydrostatic head rating of 1500mm (my kagool was rated higher) and the poles were truly, truly awful - mine were a sloppy fit into the poorly made aluminium ferrules and the fibreglass poles themselves looked more like lengths of black charcoal. Anyway, as I took it down, one of the cheap and nasty fibreglass poles split and it became a non-issue - it’s been in a cupboard ever since. But don't just take my word for it, see: Amazon Reviews
There are some seriously bad reviews for the Gelert Solo, which do tend to highlight some glaring quality issues with this tent. However, and rather puzzlingly, I’ve seen reviews of the Gelert Solo, whereby people have been very happy, some people can’t recommend it highly enough – even when having to constantly repair or replace broken poles... very strange indeed! There appears to be somewhat of a cult following for the Gelert Solo, and I do struggle to get my head round this, though I guess it all comes down to expectations, and if you don't expect too much then a cheap, budget tent may suffice. Personally I would not want to put my faith in a tent whilst on a two week adventure trip in the back of beyond, knowing that the tent poles could give up at anytime and I could be left shelterless, at night, in the pouring rain, miles from anywhere... But, if your tent budget only extends to £20, and you are only camping a couple of nights, then I guess you take the gamble and learn to live with your decision.
Now I would like to get the tent weight down to under 2kgs, but still have somewhere to put my rucksack and boots. My old Avior X2 with both a side and end entrance excelled here as, at the end opening, there is a vestibule area large enough for all my gear. I could then either access my gear from the inner tent or from the outside. I only ever used the end entrance for storage, always preferring to enter and exit the tent from the long side entrance. It really was an ideal arrangement for me.
One of my LEJOG travelling companions had a Vango Banshee 200, which by all accounts is also a good little tent, and he was very happy with it. The build quality and the fabrics were right up there. His Banshee was an older version with just the one side entrance and weighed in at around 2kgs (I believe the latest Banshees have two side entrances and perhaps slightly upgraded materials, but are also a heftier 2.35kgs – see, even Vango seem to have sacrificed some weight-saving for practicality). His Banshee was shorter internally and physically smaller externally than my Avior X2, but gave a weight saving of nearly 0.5kg over my Coleman. However, my pal had to sleep with his gear in the inner tent with him, whereas my 0.5kg weight penalty afforded me the luxury of greater sleeping space and my gear out of the way in the vestibule. At the time I was quite happy to pay the 0.5kg penalty for the greater comfort and convenience. Bearing in mind that both of these tents are described and sold as two man tents, my friend and his Banshee would not possibly sleep two people including their kit, and even my Coleman with its porch area for kit would seriously struggle to accommodate two people and kit.
Share the weight
While I’m thinking about it, if you always backpack as a couple or with a companion, then sharing the weight of a slightly larger three man tent can be beneficial. Usually the weight increase between two and three man tents is relatively little. OK, it is too heavy and too bulky for one person to carry alone, but when shared, the three man version of the same tent is considerably less weight than one person carrying a two person tent - and in many cases even a one person tent. Of course sharing has its downsides (you’ll think of a few), and myself I’m far happier having the tent to myself. When I first walked Offa’s Dyke Path, I was originally going to do the walk with a friend, and indeed we had considered sharing a three man tent. However, my friend could be somewhat unreliable, so I decided this might not be such a good idea and opted for the Coleman Avior X2, two man tent. And I’m glad I did, as my mate pulled out a week before we were due to set off, so if we had purchased a three man tent I would have been lumbered with unnecessary weight and an unnecessarily large tent. Anyway, back to the script…
Tents on a diet
Manufacturers can reduce the overall weight of their tents by employing lighter materials. Lower denier ratings of the flysheet and flooring can reduce weight, but this inevitably comes at some cost to strength, resilience, durability and indeed waterproofness. A flysheet with a denier rating of 15D will be much lighter than a flysheet with a denier rating of 70D of the same material, but the 70D flysheet will be far more robust and durable. There are even some ultralight tents available now that are employing just 7D flysheets... super ultra-lightweight, yes, but blimey this is very thin fabric! You would also expect the floor fabric to be of a higher denier or slightly different material to the flysheet (often a thicker Oxford weave), as the floor will be taking a lot more abuse and potentially be subjected to much greater wear and tear. A ridiculously low denier floor rating would always concern me. Remember, weight-saving always comes at a cost.
And indeed, when all other avenues have been exhausted, one area that manufacturers drastically reduce weight is the floor material or groundsheet of the tent. All good modern lightweight tents have waterproof bathtub floors which are sewn onto the inner tent. In the old days this floor material was quite heavy, robust and durable, often some form of rubber or a laminate of materials, and a very different material to the inner and outer tent fabrics. Nowadays, in order to minimise weight, the floor material is often very similar to the lightweight outer flysheet fabric but with a higher denier rating and usually with a higher hydrostatic head.
Tent floors
And so this is where I come to another bugbear of mine. Modern lightweight tent flooring fabric, though it can be made extremely waterproof, it is by nature very thin and so much less resilient, hence much more prone to damage by sharp objects (thorns, stones, etc.) than the thicker, heavier materials of old. Of course manufacturers know this, but they also know that their advertised ultralight tent sells primarily due to its advertised 'ultra-light weight'. The last thing they want to do is design in a more resilient tent floor that will add grams to the overall weight of the tent. They mitigate this issue by recommending that you use the tent with an additional groundsheet, commonly termed a ‘footprint’. That's progress for you!
Picture this:
“Yes Sir, this tent is £499 but only weighs 1kg. However, in order not to invalidate the warranty you will need to purchase an additional footprint that costs a further £65 and weighs 0.5kg” !!
OK, maybe a little exaggeration on my part, but you can see my gripe here.
And in any case, the super-ultralight backpacker that drills holes in his toothbrush handle and removes the labels from his clothing in order to save weight would think it absolute sacrilege to carry an additional groundsheet!
There are pros and cons to everything, but when I camp out in a lightweight tent, and in order to protect the floor, I always lay my bright orange polythene survival bag down on the ground first. I always carry it with me as an emergency shelter anyway, but it very effectively doubles as a small tent additional groundsheet. And indeed this arrangement worked perfectly well with my Coleman tent over many years. And to this date I have never, ever suffered damage to my tent's groundsheet.
Hydrostatic head (HH)
A quick word about the hydrostatic head of a material (its waterproofness).
An outer tent material (flysheet) with, for example, a hydrostatic head of 2000mm can effectively withstand the pressure of a static column of water 2 metres high before water ingress - that is before the pressure will force water through the material - so actually, quite a lot! Any material with a hydrostatic head of 1000mm or above is considered waterproof, and in a UK summer, a tent employing a flysheet with a hydrostatic head of between 1000mm - 2000mm is normally quite adequate to keep water out. That said, the minimum hydrostatic head generally considered as waterproof for a UK three season tent is 1500mm. So a tent with a flysheet hydrostatic head of 2000mm - 2500mm is accepted as being more than adequate for UK three season camping and all nature can throw at it.
For peace of mind you may just want to pay a little more for a tent employing material with a higher hydrostatic head if you intend or expect to regularly use your tent in very extreme weather conditions. However, there is no point in paying an excessive amount of your hard-earned money for a tent with a flysheet hydrostatic head of 5000mm if you only camp out a for few nights in your back garden in the height of summer. Furthermore, higher hydrostatic head figures can be extremely overkill and often seem to be just another marketing ploy in an attempt to encourage you to part with a larger amount of your cash. So, unless you plan on camping underneath a waterfall, the flysheet of a tent with a 5000mm hydrostatic head will never noticeably perform any differently to that of a tent with a 2000mm hydrostatic head. Think of it this way; you could buy a Ford Fiesta or a Ferrari, and both will easily attain the 70mph UK national speed limit. The fact that the Ferrari can exceed the 70mph national speed limit by far more than the Fiesta is in many ways irrelevant!
Some budget tents come with heavy fabric flysheets with very low hydrostatic heads in order to keep costs down to a minimum, but conversely, some top brand name, very expensive tents employ very thin, lightweight fabrics with quite low hydrostatic heads in order to keep weight down to a minimum. Horses for courses! But do bear in mind that - all things being equal - thinner, lightweight materials are also often far less robust and durable than their thicker, heavier counterparts.
But of course it's not at all straightforward and it can get somewhat complicated. For instance, silicone-coated nylon flysheets usually have a greater tear strength than slightly heavier polyester fabrics due to the way that the silicone impregnates the nylon - even moreso with ultra-lightweight double silicone-treated nylon flysheets (Silnylon). Silnylon is nylon that has both sides treated with silicone.
However, there is only a certain amount of silicone that can be taken up by very thin nylon, so the thinner the nylon fabric, the lower the hydrostatic head tends to be - yet another trade-off! This is why you see some ultra-lightweight top brand name tents with very lightweight fabric flysheets that have a much lower hydrostatic heads - usually limited to around 1500mm. Take for example some of the more pricey, but best selling MSR and Big Agnes backpacking tents that feature a flysheet with a hydrostatic head rating of just 1200mm!
Top end ultralight tents tend to use nylon because it can be made of a lower denier rating, and hence ultimately producing a lower weight fabric. Whereas the current manufacturing process for nylon is able to produce really fine nylon filaments (ie. 7D), the polyester manufacturing process currently bottoms out at around 20D.
Another point, however, is that whereas nylon fibres are somewhat hydrophilic, polyester fibres are somewhat hydrophobic - that is, nylon fibres readily absorb water, polyester fibres do not. This means that a silicone or PU-coated nylon tent will stretch and hence sag when wetted, but a silicone or PU-coated polyester flysheet tends not to stretch, and hence is not prone to sag in the same way a nylon tent does. And this can be an important (and often overlooked factor), as it can influence the tents performance, particularly on some designs of tents with nylon flysheets.
Yet another point to note... and here we go again... is that polyester is naturally more UV resistant than nylon, so although nylon may have a greater initial tear strength than polyester, UV damage can degrade the nylon fibres relatively quickly and so will eventually reduce its tear strength to below that of the polyester.
As alluded to above, some of the most expensive ultra-lightweight big brand name tents tend to have flysheets made from Silnylon, which is a strong and very lightweight material. However, unlike other materials, Silnylon does not lend itself to having the seams of the tent conventionally tape-sealed at the factory of manufacture, because the sealing tape will not adhere to the silicone. Fair enough. However, instead of sealing the seams in some other more ‘unconventional’ manner at the factory, they sell you the tent for hundreds of pounds of your hard-earned dosh and advise you to buy some sealant and seal the seams yourself… What? C’mon…! Or is it just me that has an issue with this…?
So there you go, once again, life is simply never simple! The choice of course is yours, and if every gram counts then perhaps spending £600 on a high-end ultralight Silnylon tent is justifiable. But just be aware that as the weight of the ultralight tent comes down, often so too does is durability and other specifications.
Because Silnylon does not lend itself to internal seam sealing, it is not uncommon for some manufacturers to use fabric that is silicone impregnated on the outside, but polyurethane (PU) coated on the inside, which then does allow the seams to be tape sealed. Just as seam sealing tape will not bond to a silicone-coated fabric, neither does it accept printing. A good way to tell an exterior silicone-coated tent fabric is that the brand name, logo, etc, will be printed on the inside, on the PU coating.
The hydrostatic head of the floor fabric is often of far greater importance, as your body weight pushing the floor down into wet ground is effectively the same as a large column of water pushing from the other side. In such circumstances some ingress of water may occur with such actions as kneeling, where a lot of your body weight is in one spot, but generally not when lying down. The higher the hydrostatic head of the floor fabric, the greater chance the inside of your tent floor stays dry, which is why the hydrostatic head of the floor material is often higher than that of the flysheet, and why you can often acquire an additional groundsheet (or dedicated footprint) to use with your tent if you expect to be camping in more inclement weather.
Outer flysheet vs inner pitching fist tents
This can be a great bone of contention. Many people will tell you that outer pitching first tents are better as you can put up the flysheet without getting the inner tent wet when it's raining, and yes this would seem to make perfect sense, however crawling around on soggy wet ground on your hands and knees to then attach the inner of a small tent will not be a great deal of fun. The flip-side here is that other people actually prefer inner pitching first tents as, on hot summer nights, these tents can be erected with just the inner to protect you from midges and creepy-crawlies with the flysheet left off altogether - something that flysheet first tents won't usually allow. Another consideration is that when facing extremely windy weather a flysheet pitching first tent will usually have pole sleeves on the outside that actually catch the wind far more than an inner pitch first tent whereby the poles are internal, and the flysheet contours are then effectively far smoother for the wind to flow over. All little things to be considered.
And consider this: Many big brand names such as Terra Nova feature inner pitch first tents. The Terra Nova Quasar and Voyager immediately spring to mind; and such inner pitch first tents are claimed to offer a more stable structure in extreme conditions due to the poles being less exposed. So as always, nothing is straightforward, and there is not necessarily any definitive right or wrong, better or worse.
What are you actually getting for the specified weight?
Some of the very high-end, big brand name tents reduce the overall weight of their tents by including titanium tent pegs, and indeed a decent shepherd’s crook, 3mm x 150mm, titanium tent peg is very strong and weighs in at just 5 - 6 grams. However, even here some manufacturers take it to the extreme, providing titanium tent pegs that weigh a mere 2 grams - or even 1 gram! Great weight-saving, and while they may do for pinning down a groundsheet, in less than perfect conditions you really would want something more substantial than a toothpick holding down your flysheet. And while the 2 gram titanium tent pegs are generally inadequate and mostly unfit for purpose, themselves bordering on ridiculous, the 1 gram tent pegs are 'ridiculous' taken to a whole new level! And whoever thought it a good idea to supply high-end, very expensive tents with 1 gram tent pegs, seriously needs their head looking at!
And be careful when looking at total tent weights. Tents are often specified with a 'gross' weight and a 'minimum' weight or 'trail' weight, and often the minimum weight is that which is promoted. So always check to see what the stated weight actually includes, because along with the recommended footprint, some suppliers do not include the weight of the tent pegs, guylines, tent stuff sack, tent poles bag, etc. The minimum weight figure always looks far more enticing than the gross weight figure, but the reality is that your tent won't be of much use without tent pegs and guylines.
Another potential area for weight-saving is the inner tent material. An inner tent made primarily of nylon no-see-um bug mesh (fine netting), will inevitably weigh less than a inner tent made primarily of full breathable polyester material. But then the mesh inner will certainly be colder and more draughty than the full polyester material inner.
Full mesh inner tent = reduced weight = colder. Slightly heavier full fabric inner tent = warmer = more weight.
Four season tents with storm flaps or snow skirts keep the draughts out but tend to be heavier and obviously provide less air flow which can lead to a build-up of condensation. Conversely a tent with no storm flaps or snow skirt may well be free of condensation, but quite draughty. I’ve also seen contrasting poor reviews given to the very same tent, one was because it was considered too cold and draughty, and one was because it was considered too hot without enough ventilation! Swings and roundabouts. But again you also have to consider where and when they camped, and just who has left the review… an experienced, hardened camper, or a fresh-faced, new-to-this-game camper who is relatively clueless. Whatever the case, you simply can’t have everything, and depending on conditions most tents tend to excel in one particular area, while falling down slightly - or miserably - in other areas. You simply can not expect an ultralight three season tent with a mesh inner, to perform well in up a mountain, in the snow, in the depths of winter.
A little more on condensation
Of course if a flysheet is designed to keep water out, then it follows, by its very nature, that it will also keep water in. That is, under certain conditions, moisture from your breath and heat from your body will cause water in the air to condense on the inside of your waterproof flysheet when it is colder outside. Now this will happen with all tents, but small one and two man tents are particularly prone to the formation of condensation simply because of the more confined space.
With reference to tents, condensation is often a very misunderstood thing. I'm often surprised by the amount of people that knock a tent because of the formation of condensation on the inner of their tent flysheet, as if this just should not happen. Unfortunately, as one famous Scot once said, 'Ye cannae change the laws of physics'. It's all down to science and it won't change any time in the near future!
Condensation will happen, its a fact of life. In colder conditions condensation will form on the inside of your flysheet, but it is what then happens with this condensation that really matters, and indeed where tent design can play a major role. If it runs harmlessly down the inside of your tent flysheet to the ground, then fine, no problem. If tent air circulation removes it at a rate that prevents it from dripping into your inner tent, then again, fine, no harm done. However, if condensation builds up to a point whereby it is literally dripping off the inside of your flysheet and onto your inner tent, then it may be a concern. If the inner tent is just lightweight nylon bug mesh, then condensation may drip straight though onto you. However, if your tent has a solid breathable polyester inner, then any condensation dripping from the flysheet may actually just dampen the inner tent fabric, spreading and dispersing harmlessly so never actually finding its way through to you, and that's quite acceptable.
The condensation your tent may experience comes down to two major things, firstly the weather conditions, and secondly the size of your tent flysheet air vents - if any - and/or whether or not your flysheet is tight to the ground or not. Tents with flysheets that sit off the ground all round will allow more air flow between the flysheet and the inner tent, so reducing condensation to a great degree, however, when it's very windy, raised flysheets will result in a very draughty tent... and in cold, windy weather, a very cold, draughty tent!
Now I've read some silly things about tents with more mesh inner tents being better at reducing condensation. This really is total nonsense and a sign that the seller doesn't know what they are talking about, because all inner tents are designed to be breathable and it is not the inner tent that suffers condensation (unless for some inexplicable reason it is made to be waterproof!).
Apart from the built-in groundsheet, the inner tent is NOT waterproof and nor should it be, as it is this 'breathable' characteristic that allows moisture out - away from you - and into the area between the inner tent and the flysheet. Your tent flysheet air vents and the wind conditions will directly affect the condensation that you experience. On a windy night, the air travelling through your tent may well take the condensation away as it appears, whereas on a night with little or no breeze, then your tent may experience considerable condensation. The size of your tent flysheet air vents will obviously come into play here, and while bigger air vents may help reduce condensation, the downside is that you will have a much draughtier, potentially colder tent. Swings and roundabouts! The very way you pitch your tent relative to the wind and weather conditions can also make a big difference.
By design, some 3 season tents have their flysheet slightly raised up from the ground which also allows air to circulate better within the tent and so aid the prevention of condensation. I think the main issue with condensation is that people simply do not understand it and expect a good tent to be condensation free. Never going to happen! There may be some tents that, by design, better control condensation, but you will not find a tent that is condensation free in all conditions... no matter how much you are prepared to spend.
Check out Hilleberg's condensation page: Hilleberg Condensation Information
If you experience some condensation, simply giving the flysheet a good shake and, conditions or time allowing, airing it for a few minutes before it packing away is usually all it takes to remove the worst. And then if packing away in the one stuff sack, roll up the tent in such a manner that the inner tent is not directly in contact with any moisture remaining on the flysheet. I do exactly this when I'm backpacking, and I never worry about the inner tent getting a little damp. You don't always have the luxury of waiting for your flysheet to dry out before packing away, so if it's packed damp but you will be erecting the tent again later in the day, then don't worry as it will quickly all dry out naturally. Of course, in order to avoid tent damage from mould or mildew, the tent fabrics should be totally dry if packing away the tent for any considerable amount of time - as in, after your camping trip has finished.
Now, hardier, heavier and sturdier four season geodesic and semi-geodesic tents can suffer real condensation issues, because by their very nature they are designed to keep all the unfavourable elements out: wind, rain, snow, etc. Under extreme conditions it is far more important to keep out the weather and retain heat within the tent, and with snow skirts and very small air vents, condensation can really build up. Under these circumstances, four season tents rely heavily on the tent design to allow the inevitable condensation to harmlessly run off the inside of the flysheet to ground. Unlike four season tents, three season tents tend to have larger air vents and/or better airflow by design. Along with flysheet air vents, and with no storm flaps or snow skirts, and with a flysheet that is raised slightly from the ground to allow for much better all round ventilation, most small three season tents can avoid any real condensation issues. But, as already mentioned, it is always a trade-off, good ventilation within the tent can help reduce condensation, but this can then make for a much colder, draughtier tent. The reality is that condensation is all just part and parcel of the wonderful outdoor camping experience!
Good, value for money lightweight tents
Unless money is no object, then high on your priority list will be cost. High-end ultralight tents can cost an arm and a leg, but if you do your research you can often find a lightweight tent that will more than meet your needs at a fraction of the cost, without sacrificing quality or making too big a compromise. And who doesn’t enjoy getting value for money?
When I research tents, I’m looking for a good, value for money tent that exactly suits my needs. However, I often find that the sacrifices in functionality, robustness, performance, reliability and general practicality can not be justified by the saving of just a few grams. Alloy tent poles that are made thinner to save weight are more likely to bend or buckle; less stable tent designs that save weight are more likely to distort or collapse in bad weather; less durable lightweight tent floors are more prone to punctures; those ridiculous 1 gram titanium tent pegs that stand no chance of holding in the ground from even the slightest gentle breeze. All these things reduce the weight you carry on your back, but sadly can also greatly effect how the tent functions and indeed performs in the real world.
Just be careful if you are looking into purchasing an ultralight tent. That ultra-lightweight advertised may not be quite so ultralight at all when you have to use an additional groundsheet and update those totally pointless 1 gram tent pegs to something functional. And this is to say nothing of the extra cost involved after already paying a small fortune for the tent.
So what tents out there can give my trusty Coleman Avior X2 a run for its money?
Here at STATION13, before we invest in tents, we need to know that the tent or tents that we supply to you, will not only be lightweight, made of quality materials and display quality workmanship, but also provide adequately for your needs, live up to your expectations in the real world… and not cost an arm and a leg.
We don't expect tents to be perfect in every respect or perfect for every particular individual, but they must be fit for purpose and good all round tents. Remember, we are looking for good value for money, high quality, one man and two man tents.
After doing our research, two tents that we have been very interested in, are manufactured by GeerTop of China. What attracted us to these two tents in particular, and indeed this China manufacturer, is the fact their tents do seem to be relatively high spec, high quality tents, they seem like a very reputable company - we’d not heard anything bad about their products... and, most importantly, both are very lightweight tents!
With the quality of the tent being of foremost importance to us, and GeerTop of China looking to be a genuinely good company providing genuinely good products, we imported samples of these two tents to evaluate. Both are lightweight one person backpacking tents.
These tents are the GeerTop TOPWIND 1, lightweight one man tent and the GeerTop PYRAMID, lightweight one man tent. The GeerTop TOPWIND 1 we were sent has the yellow flysheet (but is also available in red), and the GeerTop PYRAMID has the iron blue flysheet.
Click HERE to go to the TOPWIND 1 additional information page.
Click HERE to go to the PYRAMID additional information page.
Since the above was written, we have moved on considerably as an online camping equipment business. We have grown over the last few years and now have a far greater range of lightweight one and two person tents available, many manufactured specifically for us and to our specifications.
Please don't hesitate to contact us if you require any help or additional information regarding our products.
GeerTop TOPWIND 1 - GeerTop PYRAMID - Gelert SOLO
We set up the tents and compared the various features
We set up and compared: the GeerTop TOPWIND 1, the GeerTop PYRAMID, my old GELERT SOLO
nd my much-loved COLEMAN AVIOR X2
We set up and compared: the GeerTop TOPWIND 1, the GeerTop PYRAMID, my old GELERT SOLO
nd my much-loved COLEMAN AVIOR X2
The GeerTop PYRAMID
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My old Gelert Solo
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My old COLEMAN AVIOR X2
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Weight: 1.2kg
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Weight: 1.62kg
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Weight: 2.45kg
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My old COLEMAN AVIOR X2 and old GELERT SOLO
You might wonder why I am talking about these old model of tents, that may no longer even available. Well, this is just to add a little perspective. My much-loved, trusty Coleman Avior X2 still looks good, but I'm pretty hooked by the new GeerTop models, and the weight-saving they offer over my Coleman is just too impressive to ignore. The TOPWIND 1 gives me a weight saving of over 600 grams for a tent that still happily meets my requirements, while the PYRAMID provides me with an incredible weight-saving of around 1.2kgs!
And, as I do now always walk with walking poles, I rather expect the PYRAMID tent will be my go-to tent from this point on... that said, the other one person GeerTop tents both have very endearing qualities... so... hmmm...
You might wonder why I am talking about these old model of tents, that may no longer even available. Well, this is just to add a little perspective. My much-loved, trusty Coleman Avior X2 still looks good, but I'm pretty hooked by the new GeerTop models, and the weight-saving they offer over my Coleman is just too impressive to ignore. The TOPWIND 1 gives me a weight saving of over 600 grams for a tent that still happily meets my requirements, while the PYRAMID provides me with an incredible weight-saving of around 1.2kgs!
And, as I do now always walk with walking poles, I rather expect the PYRAMID tent will be my go-to tent from this point on... that said, the other one person GeerTop tents both have very endearing qualities... so... hmmm...
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My trusty old Coleman Avior X2, all the features I like, but it can't compete with the weight-saving advantages offered by the new GeerTop TOPWIND 1, the PYRAMID and the BLAZER.
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My old (never-used in anger) Gelert Solo. Only 1.6kgs, No room inside for my 65 litre rucksack but I could get my boots in under the flysheet. However, very suspect quality - I had to Gaffa tape all the cheap fibreglass poles as one cracked the very first time setting it up.
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The old gives way to the new...
PACK SIZES: Coleman Avior X2 - GeerTop TOPWIND 1 - Gelert Solo - GeerTop PYRAMID
Dimensions: Avior X2: 44cm x 19cm - TOPWIND 1: 42cm x 15cm - Gelert Solo: 40cm x 14cm - PYRAMID: 38cm x 11cm
